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 MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build

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SilverTip
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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Sun Oct 05, 2014 2:42 pm

I think you are on the right track. Zero all scope adjustments. Check bore sight with scope sight at several different distances. And since your scope rail has been compromised, shim and adjust accordingly.
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foxtrot92000

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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Sun Oct 05, 2014 5:37 pm

im going to the store now to buy a bubble level or two, and a piccatinny mounted laser. That way I can have two reference points when mounting the rail and scope. I will get it fixed and ready for Tuesday.

If all else fails there is a scope mount from a company called JMECH that is a no-gun smithing required mount to your receiver. Its a metal band that fits around your barrel that you tighten up and to the rail and make room in the stock for it. The Rock Solid mount I have now looks much sturdier, but if all else fails I may go that route. Really don't want to spend more money for a scope mount.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I will show groupings tomorrow or Tuesday. more likely Tuesday.
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LVJake7761

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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Mon Oct 06, 2014 9:47 am

I'm going to re-bed my ATI mount also and I have a question
if I zero all my scope settings won't I be giving away half of my elevation adjustment?
since I plan on taking off the mount and doing a new bed job 
couldn't I get back some elevation adjustment by leaning heavy (up or down ) before I bore site it
I'm just all confused witch way to go if I do this
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northumbrian

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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Mon Oct 06, 2014 12:55 pm

Without doing a load of work to the receiver I can't really suggest anything else.
I will say the Jmeck mount, won't seat any better than the Rocksolid if the receiver is war finish, and rougher than a badgers rearend.

The first thing I would do is finish the receiver off as if it was a pre war finish, basically file/grind all the crap off until it's perfectly round.

Then using Vee blocks for the barrel, and a 123 block for the receiver, remove the action from the stock, and place onto the 123 & Vee blocks.
Get everything level, use a bore laser to establish a reference point on a wall at least 30ft away.

Clean all the crap off the scope base, get it all off, and I mean ALL.
The two mating surfaces have to perfect to each other.

Place the scope base onto the receiver, get it level with the action. if you have one use a laser on the scope base to line up on the reference spot on the wall from the bore laser.
Otherwise zero the scope and fit to base, aim up on the lased point, taking in account bore & scope centres, ie. if the bore scope centre are 2 inches apart mark another point 2" above the llased bore point on the wall and aim the scope on that.

Now this is the tricky part if the scope base was out in the first place, and you've now just changed the receiver surface.

I have two long parallels which I clamp a thin piece of steel bar, to support the scope base whilst I line it all up.

Using feeler gauges measure any gap between the scope base & receiver. and shim accordingly.

This take time and patience, but it does produce results.

But it helps if your not in a hurry to get the job done, secret is take your time.

I'm not intending to teach the sucking of eggs here, but I don't know your knowledge or abilities.

Bottom line both mating surface have to perfectly match each other, and this can only be achieved with attention to detail and patience.
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northumbrian

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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Mon Oct 06, 2014 12:59 pm

This very reason is why the Red Army changed to the PU mount, from the PE mount.
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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Tue Oct 07, 2014 3:50 pm

I agree with Brian.

Yes Jake. You are correct. Its called base angle. Or scope base angle. Typically 20moa is the angle alot of shooters will use.

Theres some kewl math here. It'll help you figure it out. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:22 pm

nice read that was interesting
I did about the same thing but without the math lol

I took one of my paper targets taped it on the wall
then measured the difference of my scope centerline vs the bore centerline
was right about 2 1/4" then on my target I took a sharpie and drew a line 2 1/4" high on the target
then using a bore laser I centered the bore right on the target center
I centered the scope side to side then set the elevation all then way down then came back up two turns on the scope
which is about 20 mils giving me about 80 mils in height adjustment from zero 
tried it a few times loosening the mounting screws until I could get them lined up as close as I could

took it all apart cleaned everything and laid some JB Weld on the mount then put the laser
on the center again and sited in the scope to line it all up center side to side and on my hash mark with the scope
wedged a pencil in to keep it there and taped it all in place checked it a few times
to make sure it stayed in place this morning it was all dry lock tited the screws and checked it again and it was good

then bore sited it on a tree outside and dialed my turrets to zero everything only took a few clicks to get it all centered


so now I figure I have around 20 mils of down adjustment and 80 or so up
I figure I should be able to get out to about 1100 yards with my light load with a MV of 2227fps
if I can get my speed up I can push it out to maybe 1200 or more in scope adjustment
which would be about my limit as far as transonic zone is concerned

I still have to test it but with any luck I'm golden
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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Thu Oct 09, 2014 2:56 am

Fingers crossed
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foxtrot92000

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PostSubject: Re: MN Sporter, Special Purpose Rifle Custom Build   Mon Oct 13, 2014 3:31 am

So, I emailed RSI last Friday in hopes of getting a new mount shipped to me or their manufacturer specific advice an amature like me could do to get the scope mount correctly centered. As of right now, I have not gotten a reply. But seeing as how I sent the email right before a weekend, that's understandable. So I decided to give it one more attempt at a fix using washers as shims and jb weld.

I cleaned all of the old jb weld off of the bottom. whenever I would try to add or take material away before I could get it level up/down but I couldn't bring it over left/right to the correct position. It would always be tilted or aiming slightly to the side. So I cleaned it all of and re mounted it. Again, it was aiming downward and to the right of the barrel alignment. I added a washer for a spacer behind the second screw on top and tightened everything down. Besides a noticeable gap at the front of the mount in between the receiver, it looked promising. With the back tightened down it did pull the rail to where it was pointing to the right again. I checked the level with a bubble level. I compared the level of the barrel in front of the rear sight base and the scope mount repeatedly until I got the same alignment. Then I began focusing on the right/left issue. I discovered if I didn't tighten up the rear anchor screw completely it would remain in alignment. So, I sprayed my receiver and screws with Pam cooking spray (for up teenth time) and applied the JB weld to the mount along the front of the mount to fill the gaps created by the shim and along the outside and rear anchor hole. I then put the mount on my receiver and tightened the tp screw until it was the correct level and JB weld squeezed out the front. Then, I tightened the anchor screw slightly until it was also level and straight. I had no way of confirming this other then my eye, but (with the bolt out and firearm proven safe) I would look down the muzzle and line up the center of the bore. I would then slowly raise my head and check for the straightness alignment of the rail. I slowly tightened until it was straight. I do not know if I had enough jb weld around the anchor hole to provide a good bed job but if I don't I can go back and add more little by little while also checking for straightness.

as of right now, I am hopeful. However, I do have other sad news. The last shooting session I had with the Mosin the rings were not securing the scope correctly and the recoil would force it to move forwards in the rings. This cause the scope magnification dial to jam up on the back of the rail, not only preventing me from using the dial but also pushing it backwards in its place and damaging the outside. >_<  I contacted Vortex and I can ship the scope in and its covered by the warranty. They will either fix or repair the scope. Considering the magnification dial is messed up, and there are 2 decent divets in the aluminum from the scope rings I would imagine they will replace the dial, if not the entire optic. So, When I test this rifle in the next couple days it will have my $45 tru-glo shotgun 4X scope. lol.

By the way, everytime I go out and test the mount to determine if it correctly centered I say ill post groupings. The reason I haven't posted (or even saved any) as of now is because the scope has been moving in the rings so there are inconsistencies that need to be worked out and the groups aren't worth the photo anyways. The best I've gotten so far that I can remember is around 2" at 50-60 yards.
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